Equipment for Icefall Climbing
If you don't have any of these items, don't panic! Give us a call for advice on what to buy. Items marked * can be hired from us for £5 per item per day. Items marked # are provided free of charge if you don't have your own, and must be replaced if lost.
- Boots
- Leather mountaineering boots, eg La Sportiva Nepal Extreme Evo or Scarpa Freney XT, are best, but plastic boots (Koflach, Asolo, Scarpa) are also OK. Boots can be hired locally if you don't want to buy them specially for your trip, at around 10-15 euros per day.
- *Crampons
- These should have minimum twelve points, and must have agressive ice climbing front points, eg Petzl Charlet M10 or Grivel Rambo. Anti-balling plates are strongly recommended.
- *Ice axe/*ice hammer
- Technical axe and hammer (50-55cm), with an inclined (banana) pick. A wrist loop should be fitted to all climbing tools, unless designed for "leashless" climbing.
- #Climbing Harness
- With adjustable leg-loops, so it can be fitted over thick clothing without removing boots and crampons, eg Black Diamond Bod style.
- #Climbing Helmet
- Gaiters
- A neoprene strap is much better than a shoelace to go under the boot.
- Waterproof jacket and over trousers
- Trousers should have at least a knee-length zip so they can be fitted over boots and crampons, a full-length zip in the legs is preferable. The jacket should have a good hood that will fit over your helmet.
- Gloves and Hat
- One pair of warm ski gloves or mittens, one pair of thin fleece gloves, one warm hat, one sun hat or cap, and a buff as a spare hat or neck protection.
- Rucksack
- 50-55 litres, eg Lowe Alpine Attack. A strong plastic liner is essential for keeping contents dry.
- Walking poles
- Transfer some of the strain from your legs to your arms
- #8' sling with screwgate karabiner
- #Belay plate with screwgate karabiner
- eg Black Diamond XTC or Guide, must be compatible with 8mm ropes
- #Ice screw & stopper
- Black Diamond Express
- Prussik loops
- 3 prussiks if you already have them, or 4m of 5-6mm soft cord to make them up when you arrive.
- Bivvi bag
- Large polythene survival bag
- Headtorch with spare batteries
- eg Petzl Tikka XP
- Glacier Glasses
- plus spare pair of sunglasses if you have them. Essential to protect eyes against sun and snow glare. Glasses must fit close to your face, or have side panels to prevent light leakage.
- First aid kit
- Small personal pack including treatment for blisters
- Water bottle/flask
- eg Nalgene, or Platypus/Camelback (better if insulated): 1 - 1.5 litres. Small stainless steel flask.
- Ear plugs
- Very useful when sleeping in mountain huts. Can be bought at chemist or DIY shop
- Sun screen
- Factor 15 minimum for skin, plus total block for lips
- Lightweight sheet sleeping bag
- For using in mountain huts
- Clothing
- Should include thermal top & bottom, fleece top(s) (two thin better than one thick), tracksuit trousers or lightweight trousers, walking socks, t-shirts, duvet jacket, etc.
- Compass, map, watch
- Maps should be weatherproofed in strong clear plastic bag or covered in clear fablon or protected by a map case - Ortlieb cases are excellent. A watch with an alarm is very useful.
- Mobile phone
- Towel & wash kit
- Camera
- Current passport and Alpine climbing insurance
- Money
- Local currency can be obtained using Visa and debit cards from cash machines. Some mountain huts and telepheriques accept Visa